A Dedicated Mahua Bar, Fun Bites And Cool Cocktails: What's New At Bandra Born

Bandra Born started as a 12-week pop-up in October 2023, envisioned as a temporary resident of the space once occupied by the popular Salt Water Cafe. Right from its early days, it was clear that it was going to leave an indelible imprint on Mumbai’s food scene. Chef partner Gresham Fernandes’ creative ode to his roots in this buzzing locale found resonance with many people. It eventually established itself not only as a full-scale restaurant but one of the most acclaimed new openings in a neighbourhood that sees far too many ventures come and go.

We revisited Bandra Born a year after its opening, when it unveiled a revamped menu and a few changes in decor. It has also launched India’s (and the world’s) first dedicated Mahua bar on its premises. This indigenous spirit is made from the Mahura flower which is native to India. Bandra Born is now offering the chance to not only taste a luxury heritage spirit but also appreciate its versatility in the form of cocktails. Ravi Shetty, the Head Bartender, has curated 10 drinks that feature Six Brothers Small Batch Mahura in creative ways. Chef Gresham explains, “We wanted to create a doorway through which guests could discover the possibilities of what Mahua can be. We found that the spirit goes well with sweet and sour flavours. So the first drink that Ravi made was a Nimbu Paani with Mahua.” This early invention, christened Kadak Nimbu Sharbat, features on the final menu.

Classic cocktails have also been reimagined with Mahua instead of their usual spirits, with options such as the Mahua Mule and Mahua Colada. But what made Chef Gresham choose the spirit in the first place? He reveals that his other partner behind Bandra Born – restaurateur Riyaaz Amlani – has long wished to spotlight native liquor in India. He adds, “I think our Mahua programme also ties in with the rebellious spirit associated with Bandra Born. There are no rules about our cooking here, we don’t confine ourselves in any way – and I feel that is also reflected in the Mahua menu.”

There are some fascinating new additions to Bandra Born’s regular cocktail menu too, ranging from festive to fruity. Highlights include the Goan-inspired Dot’s Dodol (bourbon, ghee, coconut, and raisins), It’s Always XXXmas In Bandra (blended scotch, red apple, and cinnamon honey) and Zig Zag Nights (vodka, pineapple and cherry liqueur). As for the food, one can now expect a mix of fan favourites and fun new additions. Chef Gresham explains, “We changed the format of the menu – we have more small tasting plates instead of mains and other dishes. There are almost equal amounts of veg and non-veg options.”

We feasted on a series of delicacies, including the refreshing Watermelon Ceviche, the wholesome Anglo-Indian Coorgi Pork, and the smoky Chargrilled Squid. We were especially fascinated with the craftiness of the Duck Stroopwafel. We bit into wafer-thin waffles (made with a cookie batter) encasing smoked duck, plum and mustard ganache and arugula. It was a magical combination of sweet and peppery. Another twist not to be missed is the Mutton Panroll – an elevated version of a staple Bandra-style snack. The delicately crisp pockets held a stuffing of aromatic black mutton cooked with agri masala. The flavours were further enhanced with a roasted beet hot sauce. We couldn’t stop ourselves from taking seconds!

While trying the new additions, we didn’t miss the chance to relish some of the dishes retained from the old menu: the beautifully tender Beet’s Meet, the heavenly East Indian Crab Curry Dip (served with a Croissant pav we could eat by the ladi), and the hallowed Venus Jam Cake with Mixed Berry Sorbet. But Chef Gresham had one last parting shot and we were fittingly left to marvel at his ingenuity. The Complex Kela is a new dessert that is composed of multiple elements made with bananas in different forms. Our bowl contained small bits of chewy pre-dried bananas and silken house banana ice cream. It was topped with a syrup slightly reminiscent of salted caramel, but that’s actually made of banana skins from the kitchen!

The decor and layout at Bandra Born have undergone a slight makeover. On the ground floor, there are now two key spaces: a high-top dining area and a sunken lounge, with an open-layout bar in between. The lounge is markedly different from its previous avatar and the seating is much more comfortable. Each aspect contributes to the ambience in a distinctive way and it has been accordingly curated. Chef Gresham says, “The playlists and the lights change according to the first and second seating. There are three different energy levels in this space.” Upstairs, you can find a 22-seater bar area with a more quirky vibe. There’s also a rooftop terrace nearby, facing a busy street but made cosy with string lights. The signature street culture-inspired touches to the decor remain playful.

By anchoring itself in a mix of personal and local, Bandra Born manages to offer a unique blueprint for various aspects of the city’s cultural fabric. This has been one of its hallmarks since the beginning. But even if you aren’t interested in the stories, there’s plenty to soak in and enjoy: lip-smacking food, innovative drinks and an electrifying ambience.

Address: Annexe, 87, Rose Minar, Chapel Rd, Reclamation, Bandra West, Mumbai.